Nonconformist's Guide To Gun Ownership Part 1

OK, so maybe this is you:

• Suburban or urban Gen-X
• You don't hunt or fish
  
• You don't own any camo clothing
• You are a Libertarian, a libertarian, or at least you agree with the Constitution
• You appreciate the ability to take responsibility for your own self and you don't expect anyone else to provide for you
• You don't even know where a firing range is
• You are not looking for a new hobby or to make any new social connections
  
• You've never even perused a copy of Guns and Ammo or Soldier of Fortune

If so, then you may find this guide useful.

First, a bit about myself. I fit the description above. I am a Christian, a father, a husband, a musician, and an engineer. I didn't grow up around guns, although my household contained two .22s when I was a kid. As far as I can remember, my dad only ever shot them once. Suffice to say, I grew up ambivalent about guns. However I have always been fiercely independent and a huge fan of the Bill of Rights. I never really had any warmer feelings for the Second Amendment than I did for any of the others. One day I woke up and realized that I didn't even know how to use a gun, even if I had to. I didn't know how to load a semi-automatic pistol, or how to use pistol sights. I didn't know how to buy ammunition. I didn't own a gun and I was not capable of making use of one. So what, right? Well certainly for every one of us, there is at least one circumstance where you can imagine you might want to know at least how to use a gun, right?

So one thing led to another and over a year's time I went from being fully ambivalent about guns to owning two pistols and having a Concealed Handgun License.

Why a Gun?
Well if you are reading this, you probably already figured this out. It is hard to see this looking at it from the non-gun-owner angle, but once you go down the road a little ways, you end up with your eyes opened up quite a bit.

A gun is a tool. Our founding fathers considered guns to be vital to preserve liberty. It is a basic "natural right" for people to maintain the tools that they can use to defend their lives and property. Guns are the most efficient tools to do this job.

I went down this train of thought:

1. I need to learn to use a gun, just because I don't want to be unprepared if someday I need to use one
2. I can see the usefulness of a gun in the car when traveling through unfamiliar areas, and the Texas law was changed last year to allow car carry unambiguously
3. In the slim chance that someone breaks into my house while my family is there, I would definitely rather have a gun in my hand
4. If I walk in on a burglar in my house, I want the gun with me and not in some safe inside the house
5. I would like to be able to defend my family when we are away from home, so I need to be able to carry a gun
6. If I am going to use a gun, I need to learn to shoot it accurately
7. If I am going to have a gun in the house, and I am going to carry one, then I need more than one.
8. If there are guns in my house, my wife and kids need to learn to handle them
9. My wife needs to learn to shoot a gun and handle it as well as I can
10. My wife and I both need Concealed Handgun Licenses

It is easy to think that guns are unnecessary or unreasonable for normal people to own and carry, but once you begin to really look at the statistics for violent crime and property crime, even in nice areas of safe cities, then it begins to make a lot more sense.

In summary it is better to have a gun and never need it than it is to need a gun and not have it. I hope to find myself an old man and feel like a fool for carrying a gun all this time since I never needed to use it.

New Friends
When I was new to gun ownership I found that much of the advice I was getting from well-meaning and knowledgeable people was hard for me to accept because it was clear that I had little in common with some of these people, and I could sense that they did not really relate to my situation.

It is an often denied fact that there exists sort of a "gun culture" that is kind of hostile to newcomers. These people are, for the most part, not openly objecting to new people but they do passively imply conformance to the group's attitudes is key to belonging. If you are a nonconformist, this is not going to work for you. So you may not want to belong! That doesn't mean you have to be uninformed or unarmed.

First of all, I am going to assume you are getting a gun or have a gun for home defense, and for self-defense.

Gun selection
If you are not going to hunt, live in the suburbs or an urban environment, and don't shoot guns as a hobby, then a hand gun is likely the best choice for both home defense and self-defense. A hand gun has the advantage of being portable easily in your car, concealable on your person, packable inside a bag you might be carrying, and ease of use within the confines of a house or apartment. Also the new gun owner/buyer might consider that if they have not grown up shooting guns, they will need to commit a lot of time and resources to practicing. Ammunition cost and availability might be a major factor. Ammunition is much more expensive than you might think! For these and other reasons, I recommend the first gun purchase be a compact high-capacity 9mm semi-automatic pistol for most nonconformist gun owners. Since your first gun may be your only gun for some time, there are some things to consider.

Practice. We are joining the team in the middle of a game. There are a lot of experts and experienced gun owners who already have a great deal of training so some complex things like combat reloading and operating safeties are second nature. But these add to the learning curve for those of us joining late and are an unnecessary impediment, IMHO. Likewise we need to practice a lot so cheap, ubiquitous ammo plus ergonomics, comfort, and recoil management of a hand gun are keys to frequent practice. Thus the 9mm semi-auto. 9mm ammunition is the least expensive of the effective defensive cartridge choices, and you can buy it at any gun store or even at Wal Mart.

Carry. Get a gun you can carry on your person. This is why I suggest a compact or midsize frame polymer 9mm. Something in the 25-ounce, 4" barrel, double-stack range. Ideally, a Glock G19 or M&P9 fits the bill.

Safety. You have to learn a new skill to learn to use whatever manual safeties exist on a hand gun. Among semi-automatic pistols, there are two broad categories: SA/DA, and DAO. Likewise these firearms usually fall into two basic camps of pistols: hammer-fired and striker-fired.

Real quick: With semi-automatic pistols, they are typically either fired by a striker, which is sort of a pin under spring pressure, or a hammer and firing pin. The hammer is rotated back under spring tension, then released and it hits a firing pin, which snaps forward to impact the primer in the cartridge and ignite the cartridge. SA, DA, and DAO stand for Single Action, Double Action, and Double Action Only. Single Action is a trigger mechanism wherein the trigger only releases the hammer while the hammer is fully under tension. Double Action refers to a trigger mechanism wherein the trigger pull is used to cock the hammer back during the first part of the trigger stroke, and then release it at the end. As you might imagine, cocking the hammer takes some amount of force, so a Double Action trigger is stiffer or harder to pull compared with a Single Action. Most hammer-fired semi-automatic pistols will fire the first shot in either Double Action mode, or you can manually cock the trigger back and then fire the first shot in Single Action. The recoiling action of the pistol when it fires actually cocks the hammer automatically and then the next shot is Single Action even without having to manually cock the hammer.

Double Action Only pistols are available both with a hammer, and also striker-fired. Striker fired pistols (such as a Glock, Kahr, Springfield XD, S&W Sigma/M&P, etc.) pistols have no hammer to protrude from the rear of the pistol, which may be of benefit if you are carrying. They are all DAO, since there is no hammer to be cocked. Most hammer-fired pistols have a manual safety, and most striker-fired pistols do not have a manual safety. Some pistols have other kinds of safeties such as a grip safety.

Further confusing this matter is frame material, and the infamous "1911". In short, a 1911 is not, in my opinion, the best choice for a first-time gun owner. Semi-automatic pistols are available in steel, aluminum and polymer frames, with the main difference being weight and percieved recoil. Limiting the choices to 9mm pistols, the recoil of a polymer gun is not unmanageable even for most children who are old enough to be firing a gun under supervision so there is not a real compelling reason to sacrifice the light weight of polymer pistols in favor of reduced recoil of steel. Aluminum, on the other hand, tends to have a harsh feeling recoil.

IMHO, a DAO trigger is plenty of safety and much less to have to learn. For this reason, I recommend the best safety for a new gun owner is a DAO pistol with a heavier (8lb or so), longer, deliberate DA trigger pull. You won't fail to pull the trigger under stress, but you might forget to turn off the safety. A harder trigger pull tends to ensure that your shot is deliberate and not an accident, but furthermore if you are learning for the first time, it is best not to have to rely on a light trigger in order for you to be able to shoot accurately. It takes effort and practice to learn trigger control and to keep the pistol on target while you pull the trigger. If you learn with a DAO pistol with a 8 lb trigger, then you can accurately shoot nearly any gun you find in your hand. On the other hand, if you are raised shooting single action, you may find that when you have to fire a DA pistol for whatever reason, you cannot hit your target because you are not trained to use the longer or harder trigger.

The manual safety feature that works best for a gun like I suggest is a holster with good retention and complete covering of the trigger. I want a gun that you just have to get in your hand, aim and pull the trigger with no other actions required, and minimal chances of a misfire, the hammer hanging up on clothing, or anything like that. Simple. This is a striker-fired, DAO pistol.

Capacity. I know there are a lot of "5 shots is enough" advocates but the simple fact is that no matter how fast some super great trained experts can reload a revolver or single-stack pistol, it is faster to not have to reload and it is one less thing you have to learn to do. Also, it is a fact that you can carry a pistol with 17 rounds loaded into it is only one thing to carry, while the equivalent firepower in a revolver would mean carrying the gun itself and three reloads. That's a lot of stuff to take with you. A typical medium-frame or compact-frame 9mm double-stack pistol holds around 15-17 rounds in the magazine, and one in the chamber (15+1 to 17+1). Double stack means the rounds line up in a zig-zag pattern in the magazine instead of one on top of the other, allowing for more rounds to fit in the grip.

Reliability, serviceability, warranty. After you've owned a gun for a while, you probably will learn to clean it, learn all kinds of things about this brand or that brand and their service records, warranty service quality, reliability, etc. But at first, I suggest very simply, get a gun that can be field stripped without tools, from a major US manufacturer with an excellent warranty track record, and with a lifetime warranty. Buy this gun brand new from a local gun shop. Smith and Wesson is a good example.

Extras. Now the other things you need to consider when buying a gun is that you are going to have to buy far more than just a gun. The first time you head to the range, you will discover that you need things like hearing protection, a range bag, targets and ammo. Once you get back from the range, you will discover you need a cleaning kit. Then once you get the gun clean, you will discover you need some kind of gun storage solution, like a quick-access safe. Once you consider carrying the gun, you will need a holster. Expect to spend just as much on "accessories" as you do on the gun. You probably need to budget as much for extras as you spend on the gun. Right off the bat, you are going to need:

• 200 rounds of ammunition, for your first 1-2 range outings, about $40
  
• range fee, which may be $15
• a package of high-visibility targets, about $5
• hearing protection, ear plugs will work but the "ear muffs" are easier to use, $10
• eye protection - use your sunglasses if you are outdoors, otherwise safety glasses, $10
• ready storage, a safe for your home to store the gun making it available for immediate use, $20-100
• cleaning kit, $20
  

Training
Once you get a gun, the very first thing you need to do, right here and now, immediately, is get some hands-on training on handling, loading, clearing, shooting, cleaning and storing your gun. Hands-on! Make friends with a gun expert and get them to accompany you to the range, and get complete instruction so you are confident that you can do all of the above and teach others to do the same.

You can schedule a basic pistol class and get professional training in the event you don't have a qualified friend. However I still strongly recommend using a friend and doing it ASAP. You will need to have a friend who you can talk to about questions regarding gun ownership, someone who has owned a gun for a long time. If you are anything like me, you may want to be very careful about who learns that you now have a gun and plan to learn to use it.

Storage
If you have a gun for home defense, you need to have it stored loaded and chambered. You also need to have it stored in such a way that you can access it when you need it, but if you have children or guests in the house, it needs to be absolutely secure. A quick-access safe like a GunVault sitting on your nightstand is one very good option. There are other options but you must think about it and solve this problem proactively.

The minimum for safety is to put a lock on the hard plastic case that the gun came with. This will not prevent the gun from getting stolen if you leave it locked up, and it doesn't work well with having the gun ready and available for use in the event you need it in an emergency. If you are going to store the gun in a loaded state, then at least while you are sleeping or home where you can be in control of the gun, you will want it ready and available. A GunVault or other quick access electronic safe is an expensive, but effective plan since it allows quick access without having to keep the gun unlocked. However, a basic pistol safe can be had from Wal Mart for as little as $20, along with a laptop locking cable to lock it to the bed frame or some other solid object, this will work. Then you would want to adopt a routine of locking the gun when you leave the house, and unlocking it when you get home or go to bed. You will want access to this safe near to your bed.

CHL or not CHL
Ok, you can carry in TX in your car. You can carry to and from the car. You can carry in your own house. This should be enough, right? I thought so, but quickly found that if I am at more risk when I am not at home, and not in my car, than I am when I am at home. I live in a very nice neighborhood in a very low-crime city, so virtually everywhere I go is higher risk than my home. Once I figured this out, I decided a CHL was a must. The cost is about $250-300 including the necessary class plus the CHL fee. If you travel to other states, then combining training for states like Utah or Florida that may give you greater CHL reciprocity coverage may be more economical the first time around compared to taking the necessary training for these other states' permits later on. So to CHL or not to CHL? Defintely, CHL.

A CHL gives you the option of carrying anywhere you like, provided it is legal. They will cover what constitutes the legal places to carry in your CHL class. Also getting a CHL gives you a basic primer on the laws of the State of Texas for concealed carry, and this is very important. While carrying in your car is legal, it may be a hassle which is avoided by having a CHL. In fact any time you are legally carrying where it would be legal without a CHL, it will be easier and more hassle-free if you are stopped if you do in fact have a CHL.

Mode of carry
You will certainly hear from a lot of knowledgable and well-meaning people that some modes of carry are better than others, some are foolish or unsafe, and that you have to dress around your gun. Well I have to say this: make up your own mind! There are some valid points but for the most part, what works for others may not work for you, and what the Conventional Internet Expert Wisdom dictates may not necessarily apply. With that said, here's my take.

First of all, some definitions and basic information.

The most basic purpose of the holster is not to hold the gun, but rather, to protect the trigger. A gun will not fire if the trigger is not pulled unless it is experiencing a severe malfunction. So protecting the trigger is job #1 of the holster. The next purpose is to secure the gun so it doesn't go flying when you run, jump, or fall down, etc. Then you select based on what your clothing will accomodate, your body size and type, budget, preferences, and comfort.

Holsters are made from materials such as leather, kydex and nylon. Leather holsters are premium and the best ones are "boned" or formed to fit your gun specifically, allowing for retention (the gun sort of "snaps" into the holster). Kydex is a polymer sheet material that is easily formed to fit a specific gun and they offer excellent retention along with light weight and low profile. Nylon holsters are not much good for anything except a stop-gap measure or maybe an ankle or shoulder rig, since they generally either are too flimsy to offer adequate trigger protection, or they are so thick and heavy that they are impossible to conceal.

Holsters come in a few basic types, related to how they are to be carried such as shoulder rig, belt holsters (inside the waistband or IWB and outside the waistband or OWB), ankle holsters, deep concealment holsters (worn completely under clothing including the grip), pocket holsters, and holsters that fit in a bag or come equipped with a bag such as a fanny pack or a holster purse.

There are a couple of dimensional features of a holster such as cant, drop, and belt attachment type. I won't get deep into it here but basically to say, cant is the angle that the gun is held. The further towards your back you carry the gun, the more you will want it canted. For behind-your-hip type of carry, 15 degrees works well and is pretty standard. For appendix carry (right in the front), straight-drop (no cant) works well. For small of the back, more cant may be helpful. Drop or ride height refers to how high the gun rides. There is no standard measurement. Most holsters have about the same ride height, and higher may make a larger gun easier to conecal but harder to keep in one spot. Lower ride height works well for appendix carry especially with a small gun, but if you get the front edge of the grip below the belt line then getting a "combat grip" on the gun may be difficult.

Holster placement around the belt is often talked about with clock type of directions. So 3:00 would be carrying the gun directly on your right hip, 6:00 would be directly in the back, etc. Strong side means your dominant hand side, and cross-draw means the butt of the gun is facing forward and you have to draw across your body. Shoulder rigs are typically cross-draw, belt rigs are typically strong-side. If you are left handed, everything reverses.

One important thing to consider about mode of carry is the tactical situation. Consider you are being mugged. The mugger is going to likely demand your wallet. You will then make a move with your right hand towards your hip pocket. It would be nice if that's where your gun is, so you can draw your gun instead of the wallet. Likewise if you are wearing a suit coat, maybe you carry your wallet inside your left coat breast. A pistol in a shoulder rig would be positioned ideally to draw on the ruse of going for your wallet. This is where ankle rigs and some deep concealment rigs make no sense.

OWB (outside the waistband) is nearly impossible for concealment in Texas. Forget it.

If you took my suggestion on a midsize double-stack 9mm automatic, then an ankle rig is not going to work. Plus the draw from an ankle rig is not very good.

Pocket carry is a nice idea, but if you have only one gun and your one gun is a double-stack 9mm as I recommended, then it won't work for you unless you are the size of Yao Ming.

Strong-side IWB (inside the waistband) with a kydex or other holster that does not collapse when you draw is definitely the easiest for draw, and the hardest for concealment, of the viable options. This type of carry will likely require adjustment of your clothing. You may have to buy pants that are 1" larger than your current pants if you don't already have some room in your current wardrobe. You may also have to restrict what shirts you can wear that will cover the gun adequately. I also found that I am wearing a wicking undershirt all of the time when I am carrying IWB because it keeps the gun off of my skin. Many people also find that they benefit from a gun belt, but with a light weight pistol carried IWB, a gun belt is not absolutely necessary.

The risk of breaking your spine due to a fall when carrying small-of-back (SOB) are usually overstated. The risk of someone else taking a concealed firearm from your small-of-back carry position is almost zero, which will be very clear to you the first time you try and carry this way. Actually it is much easier for a BG to come up behind you and take away your strong side 3:00 carry weapon, but none of this is any real risk if you conceal effectively. Drawing from SOB is not difficult but not super easy either, and contrary to the convetional naysayer wisdom, it does not require you to "sweep your body" when you draw. It does require practice. Most dedicated SOB holsters are outside-the-waistband type and will require a gun belt for them to work correctly (otherwise your pants will sag in the rear... not good). A regular strong-side IWB holster carried at the 5:00 or so position is nearly small-of-back and works well, plus gives the flexibility of carrying in other positions.

A Smartcarry is a valuable carry method for a small gun when you might have to wear clothes that don't work well with a belt like sweat pants or shorts. IMHO I wouldn't carry a SA pistol with a manual safety in one of these (or in any other method, because I don't reccommend this type of pistol anyway), due to the risk of an ND in the holster leading to a shot in the femoral artery. This same risk applies to any "appendix" carry option.

There are other deep concealment methods such as holster shirts and belly bands, all of which are not workable for a double-stack 9mm.

$60-75 is worth it for a very good holster. Crossbreed Supertuck and Comp-Tac MTAC are supremely functional and comfortable.

Stay tuned for Part 2